Chronicle of Mont Blanc 4.810m

Chronicle of Mont Blanc 4.810m by BarcelonaWalking

“wolf by the ears”

 

Climb Mont Blanc with expert guides is an unforgettable experience for a rookie.

 

I like climbing mountains and I wanted to know the truth. I have heard about the height, weather, equipment …. and I wanted to experience all of these, so I decided to go there with my friends, the experts guides of Barcelonawalking.

Our goal was the normal route by Goûter. The Difficulty was PD (Not so difficult). From the Nid of the Eagle at 1450m, it’s a climb of 1000m, spending the night in the Goûter Aguille, then 800m more to the top, or climb 1650m directly from the Tête Rousse. We proposed the second option. The advantage of this option is crossing the corridor Goûter early in the morning, minimizes the risk of falling rocks.

The ascent of Mont Blanc with two Barcelonawalking guides is the best experience for a novice who has little experience. For mountaineers it represents much more than a peak; it’s a dream. Mountaineering history originates with this mountain.

After a journey on the road of seven hours, we rest in a beautiful and friendly hotel in Chamonix. It’s a fantastic experience, but our curiosity of the unknown doesn’t let us sleep.

The train leaving from Fayet station to Nid Aigle (2.412m) gives us time to notice the intense glances between mountain guides and clients. The guides faces are tanned by the sun and cold; the heights tell a lot about their life stories; I feel like one of them.

I put my feet on the slope on the Nid Aigle station, which makes me wake up to reality. We start walking and my head begins to feel the altitude. The effort of the first steps, the natural beauty, elegance peaks, the friendships and staying at altitude, together make for a unique experience.

We sleep at the Tête Rousse refuge (3167m) at the foot of the Aiguille de Bionnassay. We feel physically well; even the altitude has no effect on us. We sleep and wait until two o’clock in the shelter. It’s always a neat experience and a chance to delve into the recesses of the guides’ life as mountaineers. These great places are also fragile. We try to preserve the natural state of this exceptional place. The weather for tomorrow is worsening after noon; hopefully we will have already reached our goal.

Sleepless and after a fast breakfast, at three in the morning, in the dark we head to Goûter wall. Nobody says anything; the sights are breathtaking. We progress and cross the couloir famous for falling rocks, without great difficulty. We’re protected by helmet and rope. As we climb the wall, we’re spectators of the lights of Chamonix and the stars. Arriving at the Goûter shelter (3,935 m), a reddish glow burns on the horizon. It’s the sun. Now our team is added to climb Mont Blanc Peak. The stars fade away, revealing a subtle change of weather. Then it begins to snow.

I am unaware of the situation; I am driven by my guides. They taught me that the first thing to do is to identify and understand specific dangers we face and to find appropriate solutions. Having a successful experience on Mont Blanc is not to add another peak to our resume, but also to descend safely. Given poor conditions, retreat sometimes is success. This is definitely our big challange. As soon as we get to the Vallot hut (4.362m), the storm surprises us. We notice our fatigue and quickly decided to descend to the refuge of Goûter. Today we will not climb Mont Blanc.

The refuge is over-crowded, those that climbed and those that didn’t. There are tense moments where silence is the best solution. Suddenly an alpinist, who is poorly equipped, decides to leave for the summit. Bad weather, bad team, inappropriate hour, and deaf ears, all spell disaster. The next day they were evacuated from the mountain.

The weather forecast for the next twenty-four hours calls for a cold front to pass and the anticyclone again to be in place. Perfect! This time we didn’t leave the refuge early. My body is already experiencing the height and lack of oxygen. The cold is intense. I’m embarrassed, but I dare not say anything to the guides. I pace myself to the sound of my crampons, crunching under the layer of yesterday’s snow.

Again in the vicinity of the Vallot hut, a great show of light and color opens. The cold is intense and I am overwhelmed by the situation. In the final crest, Les Bosses with 1000 vertical meters on each side, I think about accidents that have occurred and the fast pace of Killian Jornet. I am driven by my crampons providing safe pasaje.

This time we get to the top. Perhaps the most important part to highlight is having the opportunity to enjoy a sunrise at 4,000 meters, surrounded by an alpine environment like no other.

But this quintessential symbol of mountaineering, located 4,810 m, is clearly for climbers. This extraordinary ascent is not for everyone. It is essential to be prepared, informed, and be properly equipped and guided by experts.

Mountain hazards include: altitude, cold, getting lost, falls, extreme fatigue, and rockfall.

The risks of the normal route of Mont Blanc:

The Goûter wall is known for the most serious accidents. Between 1990 and 2011, 74 people died and 180 were injured. There are ways to limit the big hazard of falling rocks. In the current state, climbers must know the dangers of the route and be prepared.

Advice

• Prepare: To have good chances of success, you must have experience in the mountains, train regularly and be adequately prepared. Having a good guide can also be important. Physically, you are required to not only be in shape, but also that you have experience.
• Equipment for the mountain and temperatures (gloves, etc), the necessary equipment. Orientation: Flat, guide, compass, altimeter, whistle, headlamp (GPS), food and water (food, hot drinks, telephone or radio, first aid kit).
• Learn: The mountain conditions change rapidly. To make good decisions, you need good information and know how to interpret it with a critical eye.